Honoring Martin Radovan

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In summer 2010, the Alaska Region of the National Park Service, through its Abandoned Mine Lands program, initiated the process of physically closing dangerous mines at Radovan Gulch, located in Wrangell-St. Before personnel could begin sealing adits, they had to comply with the National Historic Preservation Act and determine if the properties were eligible for listing in the National Register of Historic Places. After fieldwork and archival research, an interdisciplinary team determined that the camps, prospects, artifacts, roads and trails at Radovan Gulch maintained historical integrity and were historically significant on a local level. But the story went far beyond compliance; the examination of the site revealed a remarkable time capsule, preserving the life and work of the enduring copper prospector, Martin Radovan.

Martin gained notoriety as a prospector when he laid claim to the Binocular Prospect, a copper outcrop above the greenstone-limestone contact high on the face of a cliff overlooking a glacial cirque. Martin was supported in his endeavor by his wife, Augusta Louise Iverson. Although he never found his "copper mountain," the real treasure uncovered at Radovan Gulch was Martin's uniquely preserved properties and the history they can convey to visitors about an important way of life in the Wrangell Mountains.

Due to the research efforts of NPS cultural resources personnel, the Alaska Miners Association will be inducting Martin Radovan into the Alaska Mining Hall of Fame during its Annual Convention & Trade Show at the Sheraton Anchorage Hotel on Thursday, November 10. The "History Night" festivities begin at 7pm, with Historian Katherine Ringsmuth giving a presentation about the significance of Martin's 46 year history in Radovan Gulch. Also in attendance will be several members of Martin's family from California. The induction ceremony is free and open to the public.

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Spotting Alaskan Game

FROM ADF&G

Game animals are most commonly active in the low light of early morning and late evening. Quality optics in the form of binoculars and spotting scopes are essential for the hunter to see into the shadows and pick out a deer or a moose from alder or willow branches. In more open country such as tundra and mountain meadows, optics are useful to find game before it sees you.

Binoculars and spotting scopes help you determine whether you are looking at a legal animal and to examine the landscape between you and game. You have a better chance of planning a successful stalk if you can see the ridges, depressions, and brush between you and your quarry.

Tips: Selecting Binoculars

Spend as much money on a pair of binoculars as you do on your rifle. Quality binoculars are expensive but will last a lifetime. Expect to pay $300 to $400 dollars for a pair of quality binoculars by Leupold®. Leica® and Swarovski® binoculars average $800 to $1000.

Make sure the binoculars you purchase are water and fog proof — not just water or fog resistant. Hunting may become extremely challenging and frustrating if you are left with a pair of leaky or foggy binoculars in the field.

Do not try to save ounces by buying a small, compact binocular such as the 7x21 or 8x20. These small binoculars may be light and handy, but they are not bright enough for poor light conditions, and the image may not be as crisp and clear as a pair of binoculars with larger front lens.

Know the amount of magnification you will need. Binoculars help find game at long distances, but remember you also need them to pick out a moose’s ear in a willow thicket at 30 yards. You may spend hours supporting a pair of binoculars to find game. It will be difficult to hold binoculars steady for long periods of time if they have more than 10 power. If you need more than 7 or 8 power for long distances, use a spotting scope. The high quality 8x32, 8x40, or 8x42 binoculars will serve you well. If you really want more magnification the 10x42 or 10x50’s will do the job.

Binoculars

One of the most important decisions you will make as a hunter is the selection of binoculars. Binoculars are described by two numbers such as 8x32, 7x20, or 10x50. The first number is the magnification. An 8-power binocular will magnify an animal or object 8 times the size you see with the unaided eye. The second number is the size of the front (objective) lens in millimeters.

The more light a binocular allows to reach the eye, the easier it is for you to see well in low light conditions. You can estimate the amount of light a binocular allows to reach the eye by dividing the size of the front lens by the magnification. The higher the number, the more light that will reach the eye. For example, a pair of 7x21 binoculars has a brightness factor of 3 (21 divided by 7); for a pair of 8x32’s the brightness factor is 4 and for a pair of 10x50’s, it is 5. If all the binoculars in this example are of the same quality, the 10x50 pair will be "brighter." You don’t need a "brightness" number greater than 5, because the human eye cannot use any more light.

Spotting Scopes

Spotting scopes are specialized optics for finding game at extremely long ranges or for looking at a specific animal in great detail. Quality spotting scopes are large, heavy, and expensive. They are most useful for sheep, mountain goat or brown bear hunting. They can help you determine the sex of mountain goats, estimate the size of the horns on rams, and the sex and size of brown bears.

Spotting scopes are described in the same way as binoculars; i.e., with two numbers. The first number is the magnification, and the second number is the size of the front lens in millimeters. An example would be a 20x60 or a 15x45 scope. Many spotting scopes are made with variable power lens. As an example, these are described as 15-45x60, which means the magnification is from 15 power to 45 power, and the front lens is 60 millimeters in diameter.

Tips: Selecting
Spotting Scopes

A good pair of binoculars is better than a poor quality spotting scope. If you really need a spotting scope, then expect to spend over $500 for quality optics.

The more power a scope has does not necessarily mean it is better. Because of heat wave mirage (yes, even in Alaska), it is difficult to see a clear image at long distances above 20- to 30-power magnification.

You need more brightness than you think. Remember the brightness equation for binoculars? The same holds true for spotting scopes. To see in poor light, you need a brightness factor of 4 or 5. These spotting scopes would do the job: 15x60 or 20x80. If you choose smaller, more compact spotting scopes, you will lose detail and brightness.

Choose a spotting scope that is fog proof and waterproof.

Tips: Selecting Riflescopes

Be careful not to purchase too much magnification. Too much power can lead you to believe an animal is within range when, in fact, it is too far away for a responsible shot. High magnification scopes are heavier and, because of their large front lens diameter, they must be mounted higher on the rifle. The higher the magnification, the smaller the area that you can see through the scope (field of view). This can lead to an embarrassing situation if you leave the scope on high magnification when hunting. You may be so close to an animal that at high power all you see is hair.

You don't need a variable scope. A fixed 4-power scope will help you place the shot in the vital zone. Fixed power riflescopes are less expensive than variable scopes and often more reliable. If you want a variable scope, select one with 6- to 8-power for the high end of magnification. Variables such as 1.5-6 or 1-8 have a wide fields of view that allow for quick and accurate shots at close range.

Use of Riflescopes

A responsible hunter never uses a riflescope like a pair of binoculars or a spotting scope. If you use riflescopes as binoculars, you are violating one of the essential rules of firearm safety by pointing a loaded firearm at objects or people.

Never use a riflescope for spotting animals. The riflescope is used to help a hunter precisely place the shot in the vital zone and assist the hunter to determine if objects are between the hunter and their quarry. Always carry a variable riflescope on the lowest power setting. If the animal is near, you will be able to make a quick and precise shot.

Riflescopes are described like binoculars, with the magnification first and the front lens size second.

Selecting a Guide

FROM ADF&G

Securing the services of a guide might seem expensive, but the chances of a successful and enjoyable hunt are higher. Hunters who lack precise knowledge of game distribution, access points, and Alaska geography, yet attempt to put together hunts themselves may face frustration, danger, and disappointment. For example, only a relatively small proportion of the out-of-state hunters who stay on the road system to save money will successfully harvest a moose.

The chances of safely harvesting a big game animal improve if one hires a guide or transporter to take them to remote areas. Guides are familiar with their areas, hunting regulations, own facilities, and possess equipment that the average hunter might not care to purchase for one-time use. Indeed, many hunters may choose to contract with a guide for species other than those for which having a guide is mandatory (see list in Guide Requirements for Alaska Hunting).

A guide's knowledge, experience and equipment do not come cheaply. Although figures vary from guide to guide, expect to pay $6,000-$15,000 for a brown/grizzly bear hunt, $4,000–$6,000 for a Dall sheep hunt and $1,500–$4,000 for a goat hunt. Moose and caribou vary considerably depending on transportation methods. Guides can also help prepare and pack out your meat and trophies. Imagine carrying 750 lbs of dressed moose through a few miles of muskeg with a bear watching.

The best way to find a reliable guide is via references. Ask around. Have any of your hunting partners hunted in Alaska before? Do they know someone who did? Which guide did they use and how satisfied were they afterwards? You can also check advertisements in hunting magazines and search the internet since most guides have detailed web sites. Ask guides for references, and follow up on them. Discuss your experience level, physical capabilities, and expectations with prospective guides so that you can make the most of this adventure. There are many types of hunts to consider such as comfortable shore-hugging boat-based hunts, river float hunts, horseback hunts, fly-in hunts, lodge-based hunts, or long-range foot hunts out of spike camps. You might even want to plan to add additional species such as elusive wolves or do some salmon fishing and gold panning.

More experienced and independent hunters may wish to hire a transporter instead of a guide. These are licensed individuals and companies are able to move hunters to more remote areas by bush plane, boat, horse, ATV, snow machine, or even highway vehicle. Many resident hunters use transporters as well since they tend to be much less expensive than full guide services. Guides might also offer outfitted-only hunts at lower rates where they still provide transportation and camps.

Alaska law requires a big game guide to possess a current active guide license. You can check on guides and their licensing in several ways. A printed list of licensed Alaska guides is available for $5.00 payable to the “State of Alaska.” The list includes all currently licensed master guide-outfitters, registered guide-outfitters, the areas where they are licensed to operate, as well as a list of all currently licensed transporters. If you are interested in obtaining the licensed Alaska guide-and-transporter list or wish to check the status of a guide’s license, contact the Alaska Division of Occupational Licensing. You can also look up guides and/or transporters and have a list emailed to you by using that division’s Professional Licensing Data Retrieval System. Another source of information is the Alaska Professional Hunters Association, which represents many guides and outfitters. Finally, you can locate a guide in your game management unit and find out what contracting guides are available in that area by visiting:http://www.dced.state.ak.us/occ/apps/GuiUseReg.cfm.

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When and Where to Hunt

FROM ADF&G

Most Alaska hunting seasons begin in August and September and end by October. Seasons in some areas continue into the winter months. In locations where certain animal populations are large enough and local subsistence needs are being met, hunting for some species may be permitted all year. Bears may be taken in either fall or spring in some locations.

Timing is important for particular species, like caribou and waterfowl. Caribou migrate seasonally, and an area that provides good hunting in August may be almost devoid of caribou in September. Most waterfowl move quickly out of Alaska in early fall.

Weather, vegetation, and topography vary widely in Alaska. The following table generally describes these features by region and game management unit (GMU), and by time of year (fall versus spring).

Alaska Weather, Vegetation and Landforms by Region

Region	August–Sept Weather	April–May Weather	Vegetation	Landforms
Southeast (GMUs 1–5)	Temperatures are mild and may be warm. Skies are typically overcast, with some sunny days. Drizzle and rain is normal.	Temperatures are cool to warm. Sunny days are normal, but some rain can be expected.	The region is heavily forested with large trees and dense undergrowth. Alpine areas and muskegs are open.	Nearly the entire region is comprised of mountains and fjords with many islands.
Southcentral (GMUs 6, 7, 11, 13–16)	Temperatures are normally mild, but may be cold at night. Weather tends toward rainy, but there will normally be many sunny days. Snow is possible in September and likely in October.	Temperatures are cool. Sunny days are the norm, but rain can be expected at times. Snow is possible, especially in April.	Vegetation varies widely from heavy forests in river valleys to open hillsides with low-growing alpine and sub-alpine shrubs.	Much of the region is hilly or mountainous. There are a number of large river valleys and basins.
Southwest (GMUs 8–10, 17)	Weather is typically cool, wet and windy. Snow is possible in October storms.	Temperatures gradually warm during the spring. Cool, wet and windy is also the norm at this time of year.	Forest cover is limited in much of this area. Shrubs and low-growing plants replace trees to the north and west.	Small mountain ranges punctuate the landscape, but much of the area is low rolling hills.
Interior (GMUs 12, 19–21, 24, 25)	Weather is typically cool and occasionally cold. Precipitation is not great, but August and September are among the rainiest months. Snow is possible in September.	Temperatures range from below freezing at night to highs in the 60s late in the season. The sky is typically clear with limited precipitation. Snow is possible, especially at higher elevations.	Forest cover is extensive in river valleys, but gives way with increasing altitude to sub-alpine and alpine vegetation.	With the exception of large river flats with many small lakes, much of the area is dominated by hills, which grow to high peaks in the Alaska Range, the Brooks Range and other lesser ranges.
Western (GMUs 18 & 22)	August can be warm, but tends toward rainy and cool. Cool, rainy conditions are normal in September with storms coming off the Bering Sea.	Break up is earlier in GMU 18, with winter conditions persisting into April in GMU 22. Snow travel conditions are typically poor in GMU 22 in May.	Trees are sparse or absent over much of the area. Low-growing shrubs, grasses and sedges dominate. Trees occur in the eastern portion of both units.	Much of GMU 18 is wet lowland, rising to mountains in the north and east. GMU 22 is mostly hilly, rising to low mountains in places.
Arctic (GMUs 23 & 26)	Expect cool weather during the day and cold temperatures at night, especially in September.	Prepare for cold weather and snow. Weather becomes cool in May.	There is very little forest cover in the Arctic. The vegetative cover consists largely of low-growing shrubs, grasses and sedges.	The arctic coastal plain is made up of low hills and many small lakes. The hills to the south rise to the Brooks Range.

A Hunter's Calendar for Alaska

Please see the current Alaska Hunting Regulations for details of specific seasons.
Jan:	New hunting licenses, bear tags, nonresident big game tags needed.
Feb:	Plan your hunting trip. Call for information.
March:	Drawing and Tier II permits awarded.
Apr:	Alaska Board of Game prepares regulations for the next hunting season. Most spring bear seasons open.
Jul:	Regulatory year begins. New hunting regulations booklets available. New harvest tickets for the regulatory year.
Aug– Sept:	Most fall hunting seasons begin. Some Dall sheep, caribou, deer, and moose seasons open. Obtain harvest tickets and/or registration permits for big game before hunting. Turn in harvest reports within 15 days of the close of the season.
Nov:	Drawing and Tier II permit materials available. Some late winter moose hunts open.
Dec:	Drawing and Tier II permit applications accepted November 1–December 31 only.

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